Exhausted from his
Herculean labors as a journalist, educator, statesman, theologian, pastor, and
social reformer, Abraham Kuyper (1837-1920) came to visit Vienna shortly after
his first term in the Dutch parliament had come to an end on this day in
1876. Even as it does today, the
city presented him with a jumble of contradictory impressions. The railways, roads, and hotels were all
marked by the kind of new world efficiency that was the hallmark of emerging
modernity but the food, drink, and music were all marked by the kind of
old-world hospitality that was the hallmark of fading antiquity. It was a seductive place with its
magnificent theaters, its resplendent palaces, and its broad, bustling
boulevards.
Needing rest Kuyper
relaxed in the famous coffeehouses and sidewalk cafes. He feasted on the sagging boards of
sausages, strudels, goulashes, and schnitzels at the ornate Biedermeier inns
and reveled in the lagers, porters, and stouts at the lively hofbraus. He ambled along the Ringstrasse and
listened to the street musicians as he sat in the Burggarten and the
Stadtpark. He took particular
pleasure in watching the passing parade of busy and cosmopolitan Viennese shopkeepers
in the early mornings. He visited
the great State Opera House, culled the vast library collection of the Hofburg
National Bibliothek, and marveled at the shows in the Spanish Riding School at
the Hapsburg palace.
But Kuyper quickly
discovered that the one place where all the strains of Vienna's wide-ranging
heritage was most evident was the gem that dominated the center of the
Stephansdomplatz: St. Stephen’s Church, the city's beautiful Gothic
cathedral. Consecrated as a
Romanesque basilica in 1147, it was one of the most stunning architectural
feats of the medieval age. And it
changed Kuyper’s life.
When he visited the
great old church at the center of Vienna’s old city center on this day in 1876,
it was there that he found the reinvigorating vision that he would need for the
arduous work that lay ahead of him.
He was reminded of the fact that though the imperial House of Hapsburg
employed a few master craftsmen from time to time at the cathedral, the vast
majority of the construction was undertaken by the faithful members of the
congregation, the ordinary folk of the town. That feat of stupendous architectural beauty was
accomplished by the simple men and women at hand.
That, Kuyper realized was actually
the great lesson of all of history.
Whether building cathedrals like the Stephansdomplatz or toppling the
evil empires of the revolutionary modernists in his own time, he came to
appreciate once again the fact that all of history’s most significant
developments had been wrought by babushkas and bourgeoisie, shopkeepers and
students, dads and daughters, peasants and populists.
With that lesson learned, he was
ready to return home and launch a revolution of justice, mercy, and Christian
charity. And he did.
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